When you think about China, usually the first thought that comes to your mind is sky-high skyscrapers and big cities. While China has many of those, that’s not what I think of when I think of China. I dream about the gorgeous green mountains nestled amongst the clouds, the quiet streets filled with historical buildings and little street cart vendors selling hot street snacks, and the peaceful temples providing quiet sanctuary within the hustle and bustle of any town. I found my dream come to life in the mountainside city of Chengdu in Sichuan, China, and I found my home away from home in the city at none other than Upper House Chengdu.
No stranger to Upper House properties, in my opinion the Upper House Chengdu spot is the most unique. You don’t even realize you are arriving at the hotel when you first pull up (they can provide a luxury car from the airport or train station), as it looks like you have arrived at a historical museum. In fact, you essentially have since you arrive at Upper House Chengdu by entering a building and courtyard preserved from the Qing Dynasty known as the Bitieshi. You are literally stepping into history. As a history nerd myself, a place that honors and preserves history already receives gold stars in my book.
As a history lover, I had to spend my first afternoon in Chengdu admiring the Bitieshi. Even if people are not staying at Upper House Chengdu, they come to the courtyard to admire the Qing Dynasty history that has been meticulously preserved. On one side of the courtyard, you have an impressive art collection housed in a room that has seen many scholars. On the other side, you have a multi-lingual library housing books of all subjects. In the center of the courtyard, you have a magnificent towering tree that has been overseeing everything below for over 100 years. Red lanterns gleefully dance in the gentle breezes, and the afternoon sun was perfectly highlighting the historical wooden walls and floors while the bamboo trees quietly cast elegant shadows. How many scholars and people of significance have seen these same walls? How many have walked these same steps? And just steps from the hotel is the 1600-year old Daci Temple. This place really has got my number.
Upper House Chengdu effortlessly blends history with modernity, yet does not feel stuffy or pompous. Don’t get me wrong, this is still luxury, but luxury that feels like I am at home and not at a hotel. As soon as I walked into my one-bedroom suite (which was adorably set up for little bean who unfortunately could not make the trip due to a school commitment), it took me only 5 seconds to remove my shoes and put my feet up on the couch as if I were in my own home in Hong Kong. With a “cold pot” of local Sichuan treats there to welcome me, a library of books begging to be borrowed, and a thousand year old temple just a stone’s throw away from my room, I knew I had just found my own sanctuary within Chengdu.
Contributing to that sanctuary is the practice of wellness and wellbeing. Upper House Chengdu is a mastermind in providing a holistic wellness experience in the heart of a busy city. Just like the front courtyard, the Mi Xun spa is also housed inside a piece of history from the Qing Dynasty. As I blissfully received an amazing 90-minute aromatherapy massage, one of the highlights for me as a history lover was admiring the thatched roof. Even in the large treatment rooms, the history is preserved. You can’t help but wonder what conversations or events happened under this roof and within these walls a century ago.
The culinary journey did not end there, though. While Sichuan cuisine is one of my absolute favorite cuisines in the world, sometimes the Italian in me just wants a good hearty bowl of pasta or a perfectly fired up stone oven pizza. In the heart of Chengdu, at Upper House’s Tivano, I was able to satisfy my craving for carbs in a modern underground Italian garden. I still dream about that duck ragu with a drizzle of cream and the sinfully delicious truffle burrata pizza.
After having decadent meals one after another at Upper House, I chose something a little more simple for dinner on my last night. I say I chose something simple, but trust me it was anything but. I had been craving a burger, and the Jing bar had one with my name on it with a Sichuan influence. But it was their list of wines that really caught my attention. After having a Sichuan Chardonnay, I was eager to try another wine from another new-to-me region, and my curiosity was piqued when I saw a rosé from Mongolia. I must say that the sommelier Cederic Yao really nailed it because this glass of rosé was unlike any other I’ve ever had. Forget Napa, forget Provence. This rosé literally tasted pink, but it wasn’t too sweet either. It was so delicious that, just like the Sichuan Chardonnay, I bought a bottle from the bar to bring home to the beau.
For my final morning in Chengdu, I slipped out of the hotel just after 7:30 am to make my way over to the historical Daci Temple just steps away one last time. Upper House Chengdu is right next door to Taikoo Li, a massive multi-storey outdoor shopping complex that houses both luxury and high end stores and coffee shops, with Daci Temple adorning the outskirts. Normally a busy area full of people shopping or sitting at the outdoor tables deep in conversation, it was now peacefully quiet with the only sounds being the occasional sweep of a broom to clear away any leaves that fell upon the pathways in the night. I made my way to the tranquil temple, with the morning choir of birds greeting my arrival along with a few of the temple’s resident cats as I entered through the doors that have seen millions of visitors over the last 1600 years. If you’re in need of a moment of reflection or meditation, Daci Temple first thing in the morning is the place to be in such a big, busy city as Chengdu.
Before it was time for me to depart for my flight back to Hong Kong, I made sure to return to Upper House for a final breakfast – one of spicy beef Sichuan noodles, tea marinated eggs, and fried dough stick with soy milk. Growing up on Western breakfasts, I used to think hearty pancakes and waffles doused with ice cream was the best way to wake up, but since moving to Asia I have to say the breakfast here is phenomenal and always leaves me wanting to come back for more. Sichuan breakfasts are exemplary and need to be tried at least once. Between stepping through so much history to completely diving into Sichuan culture, I’m looking forward to returning to Chengdu to experience it all again and I need to look no further than Upper House Chengdu to be welcomed back home.
Thank you to Upper House Chengdu for partnering on this post. Although I was a guest of Upper House Chengdu, all opinions here are my own. All images are taken by me.
